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From 26 to 80+: EU's Huge Move to Expand Allergen Listings in Cosmetic Products

2024.08.13

The European Union (EU) has adopted Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 to update the labelling of fragrance allergens in cosmetic products. This regulation aims to inform consumers about potential allergens present in these products.

 

WHAT ARE THE CHANGES IN ALLERGEN ENTRIES?  

  • Replaces 17 entries
  • Deletes 10 entries
  • Adds 45 new entries
HOW LONG IS THE TRANSITION TIMELINE?
  • New cosmetic products placed on the EU market must comply by July 31, 2026 (within 3 years).
  • Existing cosmetic products already on the market must comply by July 31, 2028 (within 5 years).
AT WHAT LEVEL SHALL THE ALLERGENS BE LABELLED? 
  • According to Article 19 of Cosmetic Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009, Perfume and aromatic compositions and their raw materials shall be referred to by the terms ‘parfum’ or ‘aroma’. The presence of substances under Annex III shall be indicated in the list of ingredients in addition to the terms.
  • Allergens must be declared on the label if their concentration exceeds labelling threshold of 0.001% in leave-on products or 0.01% in rinse-off products.

 

WHAT IS THE COMPLETE LIST OF ALLERGENS FOR LABELLING?

 

Allergens

Status

Allergens

Status

Benzyl Alcohol

Current

Santalol

New

6-Methyl Coumarin

New

Sclareol

New

Citral

Current

Terpineol

New

Isoeugenol

Current

Tetramethyl acetyloctahydronaphthalenes

New

Citronellol

Current

Trimethylbenzenepropanol

New

Limonene

Current

Vanillin

New

Pinus Mugo

New

Cananga Odorata Oil/Extract

New

Pinus Pumila

New

Cinnamomum Cassia Leaf Oil

New

Cedrus Atlantica Oil/ Extract

New

Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Oil

New

Turpentine

New

Citrus Aurantium Flower Oil

New

Alpha-Terpinene

New

Citrus Aurantium Peel Oil

New

Terpinolene

New

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Peel Oil

New

Myroxylon Pereirae Oil/Extract

New

Citrus Limon Peel Oil

New

Rose Ketones

New

Lemongrass Oil

New

3-Propylidenephthalide

New

Eucalyptus Globulus Oil

New

Lippia citriodora absolute

New

Eugenia Caryophyllus Oil

New

Methyl Salicylate

New

Jasmine Oil/Extract

New

Acetyl Cedrene

New

Juniperus Virginiana Oil

New

Amyl Salicylate

New

Laurus Nobilis Leaf Oil

New

Anethole

New

Lavandula Oil/ Extract

New

Benzaldehyde

New

Mentha Piperita Oil

New

Camphor

New

Mentha Viridis Leaf Oil

New

BetaCaryophyllene

New

Narcissus Extract

New

Carvone

New

Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil

New

Dimethyl Phenethyl Acetate

New

Pogostemon Cablin Oil

New

Hexadecanolac­ tone

New

Rose Flower Oil/Extract

New

Hexamethylinda­ nopyran

New

Santalum Album Oil

New

Linalyl Acetate

New

Eugenyl Acetate

New

Menthol

New

Geranyl Acetate

New

Trimethylcyclopentenyl Methylisopentenol

New

Isoeugenyl Acetate

New

Salicylaldehyde

New

Pinene

New

Amyl cinnamal

Current

Benzyl cinnamate

Current

Cinnamyl alcohol

Current

Farnesol

Current

Eugenol

Current

Linalool

Current

Hydroxycitronellal

Current

Benzyl benzoate

Current

Amylcinnamyl alcohol

Current

Hexyl cinnamal

Current

Benzyl salicylate

Current

Methyl 2-Octynoate

Current

Cinnamal

Current

alpha-Isomethyl ionone

Current

Coumarin

Current

Evernia prunastri extract

Current

Geraniol

Current

Evernia furfuracea extract

Current

Anise alcohol

Current

 

 

 

HOW SHOULD THE ALLERGENS BE LABELLED? 

The regulation grouped similar substances into one entry. It also sets individual labelling requirement which name is to be used in the list of ingredients when there are multiple common ingredient names for a substance. Allergen will be either labelled,

  • individually for one specific substance (e.g. Benzyl Alcohol as ‘BENZYL ALCOHOL’), or
  • by grouping for similar substances (e.g. Citral, Geranial and Neral as ‘CITRAL’)

 

ACTION NOW!

For manufacturers and fragrance suppliers:

  • Expand the scope of documents to cover new allergens.
  • Ensure product labels, cosmetic product safety reports (CPSR), and product information files (PIF) are up-to-date.

 

All industry players, including brands and responsible persons, must comply with the new labelling requirements by the specified transition timeline. It is important to declare allergens accurately and ensure compliance with concentration thresholds.

 

Reference source:

  1. Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 of 26 July 2023 amending Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009