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Cosmetic Requirement Updates: Health Canada's 2024 Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist. New Additions and Amendments.

2024.06.03

 

In May 2024, Health Canada released an updated version of the Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist. This revision includes four new additions and modifications to five existing entries. The 2024 hotlist is expected to be immediately effective.

 

List of Ingredients that are Prohibited for Use in Cosmetic Products 

Ingredient

CAS No.

Synonyms and Related Compounds (including but not limited to)

Status

Basic Green 4 (malachite green and its salts)

569-64-2; 18015-76-4

Malachite green; CI 42000; malachite green hydrochloride; malachite green oxalate

Newly added, due to potential developmental effects.

Secondary alkyl- and alkanolamines and their salts

111-42-2; 110-97-4; 69331-39-1; 61693-41-2; 58855-63-3; 124-20-9; 334-50-9; 108-18-9

Diethanolamine (DEA); Diisopropanolamine (DIPA); DEA-Cetyl Phosphate; DEA-Oleth-3 Phosphate; DEA-Oleth-10 Phosphate; Spermidine; Spermidine HCl; Diisopropylamine

Amended, to include secondary alkyl- and alkanolamines and their salts for clarity. These substances have similar potential to act as precursors of carcinogenic nitrosamines.

 

  

List of Ingredients that are Restricted for Use in Cosmetic Products 

Chemical

CAS No.

Conditions of Use by product type

Maximum Concentration Permitted

Warnings and Cautionary Statements

Status

Benzophenone

119-61-9

 

3%

 

Newly added, due to adverse maternal effects such as decreased body weight.

p-Chloro-m-cresol

59-50-7

Not permitted in cosmetics intended to be used on or around mucosal membranes such as eyes, nose or mouth

 

 

Newly added, due to health concerns regarding the adrenal organs.

b) Other Cosmetics

0.1%

"Do not use in the area of the eye, mouth or nose"

 

Solvent violet 13

(CI 60725; Violet 2)

81-48-1

a)     Nail products

 

 

Newly added, due to health concerns.

b)     Other cosmetics

0.3%

 

Alpha-hydroxy acids

 

(Citric acid;
Glycolic acid;
Lactic acid;
Malic acid;
Mandelic acid;
Tartaric acid;
Ammonium glycolate;
Sodium citrate;
Hydroxycaprylic acid;
Mixed fruit acids;
Gluconolactone;
Ammonium gluconate;
Lactobionic acid;
Calcium lactobionate)

77-92-9;
79-14-1;
50-21-5;
133-37-9;
6915-15-7;
79-33-4;
5949-29-1;
617-73-2;
90-64-2;
35249-89-9

a) Products for use on the skin for consumer use

Manufacturer or importer to provide pH levels

 

Between 3% and 18% total mono-AHA equivalents with a pH equal to or greater than 3.5

 

Amended, to clarify that Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) and bionic acids with alpha-hydroxyl groups, as well as their salts, are included.

b) Products for use on the skin for professional use

Manufacturer or importer to provide evidence of safety, including:

pH levels

AHA concentrations

directions for use

clinical studies demonstrating minimal skin irritation

 

Between 18% and 30% total mono-AHA equivalents and/or a pH between 3.0 to 3.5

 

c) Products intended to be diluted in bath water may contain levels of AHAs exceeding 10%

 

 

d) Other cosmetics

Between 3% and 30% total mono-AHA equivalents with a pH equal to or greater than 3.0

"Use only as directed"

"Avoid contact with eyes"

"Discontinue use if rash or irritation occurs"

e) Any cosmetics

3%

 

Hydroquinone

(1,4-Dihydroxybenzene)

 

123-31-9

a) Oxidizing colouring agent for hair dyes

0.3%

"Avoid skin contact"

"Do not use to dye eyelashes or eyebrows"

"Rinse eyes immediately if the product comes into contact with eyes"

 

Amended, to expand the permitted nail product categories to include products for consumer use, increase the maximum concentration permitted for these products, and introduce a combined limit when both p-hydroxyanisole and hydroquinone are used in a nail product.

b) Nail products

0.1%

If hydroquinone and p-hydroxyanisole are used in the same product, the total concentration of the 2 ingredients may not exceed 0.1%

 

"Avoid skin contact"

"Read directions carefully before using"

 

c) Cyanoacrylate adhesive products for eyelash and eyebrow extensions

0.1%

"Avoid skin contact"

"Read directions carefully before using"

 

p-Hydroxyanisole

(4-Methoxyphenol)

150-76-5

Permitted only in nail products.

0.1%

If hydroquinone and p-hydroxyanisole are used in the same product, the total concentration of the 2 ingredients may not exceed 0.1%

 

"Avoid skin contact"

"Read directions carefully before using"

 

Amended, to introduce a combined limit when both p-hydroxyanisole and hydroquinone are used in a nail product.

Talc

14807-96-6

Note: Certain products may fall under more than 1 product category and may have multiple applicable conditions Read entire entry to determine all applicable conditions

 

 

Amended, to help reduce chronic inhalation exposure to talc in cosmetics. Cautionary statements related to acute inhalation risks were also adjusted to include all loose powder products. 

a) Not permitted in products intended solely for use in the genital area of those who have ovaries

 

 

b) Products that could come in contact with the genital area (for example, diapering products, body powder, bath products)

 

b) "Do not use in the genital area of those who have ovaries"

c) Products in loose powder form that may be used for diapering

c) 51%

c), d) and e) "Keep out of reach of children",

d) Other products in loose powder form intended for use on the face or body

d) 77%

e) Other products in loose powder form (for example, dry shampoo, foot powder)

 

f) Other cosmetics

 

 

 

 

Source:

1.     Health Canada’s 2024 Hotlist

2.     May 2024 Changes to the Cosmetic Ingredient Hotlist